Luise Zücker: Fashion As A Tool Of Identity
Words by Luise Zücker
Illustration by Wojciech Wos
The power of fashion as a tool of expression when it comes to exploring your identity is immane and sometimes of underrated significance. Historically, there were always ways to express yourself – often secretly – through fashion. The illegality of queerness forced them to live underground and to find secret dress codes, colors and symbols to find kindred spirits. For example, in Oscar Wilde’s time, the color green and the carnation flower were such a secret way to communicate. Fashion, to me, is talking without words. You don’t need to speak the same language to make a statement and to find allies. Especially in alternative and queer scenes, certain features are used to recognize and interconnect. Clothing, make up and your appearance in general are tools to express and feel your personality. They are an expression of freedom to disrupt formalities and to try yourself in different phases of your life. Fashion is free, playful and unrestricted. It stands for change and can be a political force. I personally found my identity through fashion by exploring all its layers and the reactions of others to the way I dress.
“The illegality of queerness forced them to live underground and to find secret dress codes, colors and symbols to find kindred spirits (…) Clothing, make up, and your appearance in general are tools to express and feel your personality. (…) Fashion is free, playful and unrestricted. It stands for change and can be a political force”
Luise Zücker
Finding my identity is a big part of my work. I believe that if you don’t know who you are and how you function, you cannot well rely on yourself in your own business. Singularity is the foundation of a resonating business. If you want to reach people, you have to find and believe in what makes you, you. Otherwise, your message will be hollow. One of my core motivations is to empower people with my creations. To motivate to be oneself and to feel comfortable expressing this without fear and blemish. My journey to be at ease with myself is the biggest foundation of my message. It is what I can offer and sell. And it resonates and shows in my designs because it comes from deep within, and I was able to transform my singularity into a creative and recognizable business.
Women and LGBTQIA+ people certainly have a different perception and perspective in business, creative processes, and fashion. For most of history they were in the background and still live in a world that is not necessarily designed for their needs and feelings. Participating in changing our surroundings and the world we work and live in is a big, ongoing, transformational process. I am, for example, the first woman in my family who truly does and works in the profession she chose. As a self-employed female designer, I find it very obvious to create feminine forms. But many fashion creations stem from the mind of a male person or are formed by the male gaze. For example, the lingerie industry is still mainly dominated by male decisions about what is sexy and comfortable. And there is certainly room for input and improvement concerning fit, design, representation, and inclusion of women, LGBTQIA+ people, and all kinds of bodies. I am immensely grateful to have found my profession in fashion and empowering design, and to now live in a world where I am allowed to fulfill it. I recognize the privilege and the battles that paved the way, and I am deeply thankful to be able to inspire for the long way still in front of us.
“Many fashion creations stem from the mind of a male person or are formed by the male gaze. For example, the lingerie industry is still mainly dominated by male decisions about what is sexy and comfortable. And there is certainly room for input and improvement concerning fit, design, representation, and inclusion of women, LGBTQIA+ people, and all kinds of bodies”
Luise Zücker
Luise Zücker is a feminist gender-positive jewelry couture label founder, pushing the boundaries with diverse wearable body sculptures. Trained as a couture tailor in Paris, Hamburg, and Berlin, Luise holds international work experience, including collaborations with renowned publications like Vogue, Tush, L’Officiel, PAPER Magazine, Harper’s Bazaar, and Purple Fashion. Her creations have adorned notable figures such as Cara Delevingne and Zoe Wees. With appearances in fashion weeks and exhibitions at prestigious venues like Deichtorhallen Hamburg, Luise Zücker’s work captivates the fashion world.
Check out her Instagram and the Instagram for Pynk.
Illustration by Wojciech Wos for Container Love. Check out his website or Instagram.